Penang

Penang has been my absolute favorite stop. Each stop so far has been different and so fun in their own way. This stop felt familiar, yet new. I was able to recognize most foods on the menu and speak Mandarin at most of the restaurants and hawker stalls.

We took a 3H train from Kuala Lumpur to Penang via the KTM ETS train. We barely missed the train (they were closing the gates as we ran onto the platform). If you’re planning on taking the KTM train, doors close 5 min before departure. The train ride was scenic and not too bumpy so we were able to both do some work en route. After disembarking the train, you take a short ferry from Butterworth to Georgetown which was 2 RM.

We spent 2 nights (3 days) and it was the perfect amount of time. We stayed at the Prestige in Georgetown, a UNESCO world heritage site. It was ~15 min walk to the heart of Georgetown. Georgetown is such an incredible cultural hub with so many different cultures coexisting and creating a multi-cultural city with a lot of character. Georgetown is one of those cities that has maintained a lot of its original charm.

Some of the highlights for us include the food, scootering around, and the small aesthetic nooks that were easy to stumble upon. This was our favorite foodie stop. Some of our favorites include: the Chulia Street Hawker Market and the Loong Fong Cafe. Both were so good that we returned twice to try other hawker stalls and other items on the menu. The Chulia Street Market is cash only, but Loong Fong Cafe accepted card. At Loong Fong Cafe, some of the food highlights include the steamed bread and chicken curry.

We visited during Lunar New Year, and the city was adorned with lanterns, creating an especially festive atmosphere. Wandering the streets beneath red lanterns and past vibrant murals felt magical. George Town’s street art scene is definitely a defining feature of the city, bringing foot traffic to random streets and alleyways around the city. The wrought-iron caricature sculptures scattered around town add another layer of storytelling, illustrating moments from Penang’s social and economic history. One of our favorites depicts Jimmy Choo and references his early apprenticeship in George Town before becoming an internationally renowned designer.

Perhaps because of its island geography, George Town has a relaxed, unhurried energy. After the structure and polish of our next stop, Singapore, the contrast felt particularly noticeable. I can’t help but wonder if the US just overcomplicates things or if Malaysia is just more relaxed. Renting a scooter turned out to be a game changer. What had initially been 15-minute walks between destinations became quick breezy rides with easy parking. One of my favorite drives of the entire trip was the 25-minute ride from George Town to Kek Lok Si Temple. Instead of taking the funicular up Penang Hill, we opted for this scenic route through residential neighborhoods, passing everyday scenes of local life. Kek Lok Si, one of the largest Buddhist temple complexes in Southeast Asia, is multi-tiered. At the top, is the towering statue of Guanyin, Goddess of Mercy. Entrance for a scooter was just 2 RM. The layout can be slightly confusing at first, but part of the experience is simply exploring.

The neighborhood down the hill from Kek Lok Si was called Air Itam. We stumbled upon a Michelin duck fried rice spot that absolutely lived up to the hype. (Air Itam Duck Rice).

Another personal highlight was visiting the filming location for the mahjong scene in Crazy Rich Asians, which was shot in the courtyard of the Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion. As an ABC (American-born Chinese), the film resonated with me for its portrayal of cross-cultural identity and family dynamics. Seeing that courtyard in person made one of my favorite movie scenes feel tangible.

For a shaded afternoon activity, Hin Bus Depot is a creative space worth visiting. Once an old bus depot, it has been transformed into an art gallery and weekend craft market. The murals, shops, and assortment of plants were a photographer’s dream.